5 Days on the GR11 – Candanchu – Ordesa
The GR11 is one of the classic high-level walking trails of Europe and runs 840km coast to coast along northern Spain, passing through the Spanish Pyrenees and taking in breathtaking and ever-changing scenery.
Our route for the guineapigs *cough* I mean pioneers of Colletts’ first outing on the GR11 began just below Candanchu, just below the French border, and finished five days later at the Ordesa Canyon near Torla. The pioneering seven were Chris, Melanie, Anthony, Richard, Rachel, Rushy and Lynne.
High on the GR11
Day One
An early start for a taxi at 8:30am took us out of the Valle de Tena, beyond Jaca and up to our starting point at Candanchu. Beginning gently through flower meadows, with fantastic views behind us to the Sierra de Aisa (a range not seen from near Panticosa), we made our way up the Canal Roya and the familiar sight of Anayet.
Lunch was gratefully had when we reached the picturesque Ibones de Anayet, where Chris gave tired feet a good soak, successfully avoiding leeches (!).
Whilst the others relaxed by the shores of the lakes, Lynne, Richard, Chris and Rachel branched off the GR11 to scale the Vertice d’Anayet, affording great views both of where we’d come from and where we would be heading over the following few days.
We then regrouped to head down beneath the Formigal ski lift infrastructure to be collected by our taxi, then back to Panticosa to round off the day with a well-deserved shandy.
Stats: Distance walked: 14.5km – Total Ascent: 900m (1200m to the Vertice)
Day 2 on the GR11
Refugio de Respomuso
Day Two
Beginning at the La Sarra resevoir above Sallent de Gallego (thus skipping the somewhat soulless section of the GR11 which walks along the main road!), we began our climb up to the Ibones de Arriel. Rucksacks somewhat heavier than yesterday and contending with more difficult terrain as we stream-hopped and scree-scabbled, we consoled ourselves with the numerous raspberry and bilberry bushes en route, and yet still managed to fit in our lunches looking down at the beautiful Aguas Limpias (clear waters) valley.
On reaching Refugio de Respomuso, our camp for the night, we indulged yet again on local cheeses, sausages and shortbread, washed down with a cold beer.
Yet more food to follow – pasta soup, meatballs and ice-cream provided by the refuge before an early night to prepare for the following day.
Stats: Distance walked: 10.6km – Total Ascent: 800m
Day 3 Walking on the GR11
Day 3 Walking on the GR11
Day Three
Waking up and already being at 2200 metres is a fantastic feeling – unfortunately due to a certain snorer in our midst, we enjoyed the sunrise without that rested feeling of a good nights kip!
Undetered, we left the refuge after breakfast and headed for the Collado de Tebarrai, which at 2782m is the highest point of our GR week, and the second highest point over the whole GR11. A scramble up and down from here led us to the Ibon de Tebarrai; the glacial blue of the waters and the contasting rock colours of the Picos del Infierno (somewhat melodramatically named Peaks of Hell!) making it more than worth the effort.
We descended gradually to reach the Ibones Azules (Blue lakes), and tucked in to our substantial refuge picnics. A long but beautiful descent followed, passing the Embalse de Bachimana Alto to lead down gorges and boulders, past plunge-pools and streams to finally arrive at the Refugio Casa de Piedra in Banos de Panticosa – time for another beer!
Stats: Distance walked: 12.2km – Total Ascent: 700m
Leaving Hotel Sabocos on day 4
Taking a break on day 4
Day Four
Well-rested after a relaxing day off back in Panticosa, we picked up from where we’d left off at Banos de Panticosa, and began up the zigzagging path of the Brazato bridleway. Despite the forecast, the weather held for us, the morning cloud keeping us nice and cool on the ascent. Legs fresh after the rest day before, we powered up to the Cuello Alto del Brazato and descended into the Valle del Ara. As we descended, the impressive summit of Pique Longue, part of the Vignemale massif and the highest point in the French Pyrenees, came in and out of view. We joined onto the Valle de Ordiso to then make our way steadily towards Bujarelo, with the steep walls of the Ordesa Canyon beginning to make an appearance.
On reaching St Nicolas de Bujarelo, Rushy and Chris went paddling whilst the rest of us indulged in an cold drink, before we were picked up and taken to Hotel Bujarelo in Torla. A hearty three-course meal later and we were off for an good (and quiet!) nights’ sleep.
Stats: Distance walked: 18.6km – Total Ascent: 1000m
In the Ordesa Canyon on day 5
Taking a break on day 5
Day Five
Amazingly, despite the added weight of both the copious amounts of breakfast in our stomaches and very substantial baguettes (two of them…each!) in our rucksacks, we still managed it up the Senda de los Cazadores to reach the Mirador (viewpoint) overlooking the Ordesa Canyon. We quickly demolished one of the baguettes to lighten the load, and then continued along the breathtaking Faja de Pelay, a natural balcony which runs two thirds of the way up the Canyon walls to the head of the canyon at the Cola de Caballo waterfall. Again, the 65% chance of rainfall was no where to be seen, and we enjoyed great views of the Breche de Rolando and even Monte Perdido (Lost Mountain – because it’s so often covered in cloud!).
We made our way down to the water fall just in time for baguette number two, and then continued down the Camino de las Cascadas – blissfully deserted now we’re into September, to finish our day and GR11 week with a Magnum ice-cream back at the carpark.
Stats: Distance walked: 20.3km – Total Ascent: 800m
Taking a break for lunch on the GR11
Final Stats: Total Distance Walked: 77km – Total Height Gained: 3600m – Total Calories Burnt: Hundreds – Total Calories Consumed: Thousands (!!!)
Motto of the week: We came, we walked, we ATE!
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Eastfield Lodge New Year Walking Break
