A Night in a Mountain Hut (Rifugio)

Within minutes of arriving, the walking boots were untied and replaced by slippers, provided by the rifugio. Freed from the weight of our rucksacks, we were soon sat on the lodge’s panoramic sun terrace with a cool beer in hand. We just sat. The towering peaks surrounding the rifugio were awe-inspiring, and they were perfectly mirrored in the teal waters of the lake we overlooked, giving the moment a sense of calm and quietness, as we reflected on the sheer beauty of our surroundings.

As with most Dolomites’ rifugios, Croda da Lago is family-run, and Modesto and Monica had kindly welcomed us in. After a warm shower and feeling refreshed, we joined fellow guests in an atmosphere of unassuming camaraderie over a pre-dinner drink, before filing into the characterful dining room for a 3 course feast; pasta or soup to start, followed by a tasty and generous plate of polenta, which you could have with local cheese or ghoulash – all finished off with the biggest slice of apple strudel.

The next morning, it was the smell of fresh coffee that woke us. Cowbells chimed outside, which was surprisingly calming, and reminded us that we were in a mountain hut, rather than waking to the clanging of the church bells in Corvara or Arabba. We packed our bags and were surprised at how quickly the rifugio emptied, enjoying a generous breakfast with a few stragglers, who, like us, had less ambitious targets for the day ahead. After fond farewells to our hosts and their staff, we enjoyed the peaceful inspiration of the lake once more before picking up our trail for the hike that would lead us back to our car. The solitude was overwhelming and special. When you stay in a high or intermediate altitude lodge like Croda da Lago, and you are on your way before 9am, it’s a long time before you meet hikers coming in the other direction. You have seized the day with very little effort!